A 3-Star Michelin Restaurant in Paris? There are only a handful of 3-star ratings in the world and I have been invited to one, le Pergolése near the 16th Arrondissment on the right bank – look it up on the Internet. http://www.lepergolese.com/fr/home.html
Thank goodness I didn’t ditch the little black dress when switching suitcases. Although I was told that the black boots I was wearing with the dress, had to go. “But I like them and they are in style,” was my protest. So okay, the boots are trendy and this dining experience is NOT. I remind myself to shut-up and get in the taxi – with my boots on. Elegant? I’m not! But trendy? Oui!
We arrive a few minutes early for our 8:00 reservation. The décor of le Pergolése has a basic French traditional backdrop with intimate seating and rather bright lighting, at least by my standards. A bit stuffy really, but who’s complaining? I am escorted to my plush seat and pushed in to the table just as I lower down to sit. Apparently the waiter has done this before and the timing was right on. Otherwise, pushing while sitting at the same time could be a disaster.
A Kir Royal was ordered for starters – crème de cassis with Champagne, meant to enhance the appetite by stimulating the taste buds. I open the menu and see the plats du jour for this evening offers pigeon breasts, among other tasty delicacies such as Créme de sardines. In France it is common to order the plat de jour, normally the best bargain as it includes a choice of two, three or four courses for one price. However, the breast of pigeon was enough to have me immediately turn to the next page of the menu – Á la carte entrees.
The prices are exorbitant. Appetizers start at 34 euros, equating to $56.44. Sorry, I can’t help but do the math. I suggest to my friend, who incidentally is buying, that we share one. OMG, how tacky of me to even consider such a thing. I am to have my own whether I am that hungry or not. I can merely sample it and leave the rest. After another sip of the Kir Royale I had no choice but to reply: “I’m sorry but that seems like a wasteful approach when people all over the world are starving.”
No, he did not take me home.
Apparently sharing is not an option. Haute cuisine essentially means fresh, in season choices arranged artfully on a plate. Translation? Smaller portions. I resist asking if the fresh pigeons came from the Champs de Mars where people are feeding them French bread every morning when I walk Bella. She even chases them. Instead, I order the Langoustines appetizer.
Had I known placing the order would get the gorgeous Chef out of the kitchen and tableside, I would have done it sooner. Stephane Gaborieau was not only handsome but also extremely charming. And, the Langoustines? Well, they looked like art on a plate and the taste was outrageous. No worries about eating them all, I wanted to lick the plate!
Had I done so, he would have taken me home.
I consider myself a “foodie” - going out to dinner often to various restaurants and enjoying exceptional food with fine wine. Some would even call me a critic having co-owned a steak and seafood restaurant that boasted fine wine, fine food, & fine art. So, I am not exactly a novice at dining out. However, the Michelin stars are taken very seriously, and losing one can often drive a renowned Chef over the edge, sometimes even leading to suicide. So, needless to say a 3-Star dining experience is also taken very seriously. In many ways I feel a bit overwhelmed particularly since I don’t speak French trés bien and reading the menu is indeed a challenge.
Without further ado I will share the menu choices I selected. I am happy to say I ate the whole thing even though parts of it were unknown to me. Bottom line, I don’t have a clue what the hell I really ate, but it was delicious and beautiful!
Sorry no photos. If I can’t share an appetizer you know I can’t take a picture! And remember, the French language does not translate into English word for word; therein lies the confusion.
Kir Royale: Crème de Cassis with French Champagne. 18 euros
Appetizer: Langoustines en nage d’agrumes, farandole de jeunes légumes, envolée de feuilles parfumées. Translated: lobsters swimming in a flavored citrus fruit sauce with baby vegetables and perfumed leaves. 34 euros
Entrée: Rouget rôti aux graines de cumin, cannelloni d’aubergines aux saveurs du midi, goutte de piquillos. Translated: Fresh mullet roasted with cumin seeds, cannelloni with eggplant, and topped with drips of piquillos. 36 euros
Cheese Tray: Le plateau de fromages affinés par notre fromager. Translated: Assortment of fine cheeses. 18 euros
Dessert: Tarte chocolat, éclat d’olives noires, glace basilic aux pignons de pin torréfiés. Translated: chocolate tarte with black olives, basil and pine nuts. 18 euros
Plus, a magnum bottle of chilled wine. When asked my preference I said Sauvignon Blanc and was immediately corrected. In France you do not order wine by the grape name, but instead by the year and vineyard. 150 euros
After clearing away the plates, I heard the waiter ask if I would like a digestif, meaning Cognac or another choice of liqueur. The French reason that finishing a meal off with a liqueur is important for aiding the digestive process. Sounds good to me. But, before I could answer I heard: “Merci Beaucoup, but she’s had enough to drink.” I decided to let that one go. But I will try Absinthe before leaving France.
The tab was handled discreetly, obviously not for my eyes. I estimate the total amount including tip to be around 450 euros because I did the math. Translated: $747 (and that does not include the $150 taxi fare). Merde sainte!
This was no doubt an experience that cannot possibly be duplicated – at least any time soon. The life of the international dogsitter extraordinaire continues to be amazing.
Bon Appétit and Merci Beaucoup!
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