Sunday, June 14, 2020

Leaving Normal


I wondered about getting too stable, too set in my ways, too comfortable; intuitively feeling the need to be living on the edge once again. I reminisced about driving across country in the late 90s  after graduate school with $2,000 to my name and 4 cocker spaniels in an older Dodge van, the only thing we owned. Never really having a plan, just letting life roll. 

The wanderlust spirit that ruled my soul took us from Alaska to Ohio for the arrival of my first grandson, and eventually on to  Nantucket where I became a nanny for 20-hours a week in exchange for a classic saltbox cottage near the beach, a kennel cleaner at the MSPCA, and a housekeeper a few hours a week for a former Manhattan dame that paid $30/hour. Her house was spotless and decorated in various shades of white. There was minimal feather dusting to be done but she had to keep up appearances with her peers and to do that, a housekeeper was required whether she needed one or not. The affluence in Nantucket was considered old money, a different world than anything I had experienced. I have known people with lots of money but this was different. Rita Kip had no concept of life outside her world of friends, status, power and wealth.  A framed antique newspaper clipping on her living room wall from the 1800s reported a European named Kip had landed his boat in New York City and in his honor the spot was named Kip’s Landing. That notorious spot is now 5th Avenue in Manhattan. The little black book on the coffee table was a reminder of Who’s Who in America; Rita’s name was in it. But I’m getting off track here, this is another story that needs to be written. The point being, these experiences of living outside what is considered normalcy have challenged me, humored me, inspired me and left me with a repertoire of untold stories waiting to be written.

Over the next 15 years I moved back to Alaska, bought a house in Homer and started a business. Reflecting back on how I once lived compared to how I now live, revealed an adventure from life as it had become, was sorely overdue. Somewhere outside the norm I would once again find that place where growth happens and creativity is nurtured. I had lost touch in the midst of the status quo and needed to jump off into the unknown again. 

Moving forward with that idea and 3,000 miles later with 5 cocker spaniels in a Toyota Hybrid called Lander, we found ourselves in Phoenix headed toward San Diego and then on to Baja. Our destination was another 1,000 miles from the California border. Many of the roads in Baja are primitive and narrow with only two lanes through the mountains.  There was a leg of this trip that was 300 km without any services. Mexico Highway #1 took us into the mountains far away from the sea. We encountered road construction that left us sitting high and dry for over an hour not knowing where we were or what to expect. The cell service was non-existent so we were clueless. And the map? Well, we forgot to get one. After getting through the delays and back to civilization, we gassed up in the first town we reached at 3 PM. To stay here for the night was tempting but would have meant losing valuable hours of travel time even though reaching our destination would obviously be long past dark. We were driven, on a mission to click those miles off as quickly as possible. The goal was to make the halfway mark of Guerrero Negro for the night, still a few hours ahead. And we did it. Totally exhausted and spent, falling into bed at a cheap motel without dinner, only to get up and do it all again. One more day of hard driving to reach our final destination, Los Barriles.

Why were we in such a hurry for 4,000 miles? In hindsight, I have no idea other than our last road trip out of Alaska for the winter was in 2012, destination Hendersonville, North Carolina. Maybe it takes time to unwind and settle into the moment. We don’t normally drive at night, especially roads that are unfamiliar but I felt the need to push forward as quickly as possible; the dogs were happy to sleep wherever. We had forgotten how to allow the rhythm of life to flow without any control or force. To be present in the moment and enjoy the simple things. These were old lessons that would be relearned over the next several weeks. And we soaked them up by slowing down, relaxing, and being comfortable to just Be without a plan.

We are grateful for every moment we spent, and the wonderful people we met,  during our time venturing outside the norm. This is the lifestyle that resonates with my soul; the pace that had temporarily been abandoned during the process of living life. We will continue to search out those places that take us back to the beauty surrounding us in nature, music, art, culture, different ways of doing things, and stretching life to the limits. Being scared without a set plan, and not knowing how things will turn out is a good thing. We are so glad to reconnect and expand our horizons once again. In retrospect, I was always at peace on the road to wherever, with little money. The safety net is not far and has never failed to catch me along the way when I needed it.

By leaving normal and jumping off the safe path into the unknown, the wanderlust spirit has returned to once again nurture my soul. Life is precious and meant to be enjoyed. We are reminded to live in the moment, be aware of the simple pleasures, practice gratitude of what is every day, and Breathe—deeply and fully. 

Namaste´

Tuesday, April 9, 2019

More Horse Play . . .


Compadre. . .
and the rest of the story



We met at the stables before sunrise—just me, Betto and the horses. An early beach walk to  reconnect with Compadre and start another glorious day. The waves were splashing and the air was cool as we leisurely walked along the brilliant blue Sea of Cortez. Me,  wondering how I could ever leave this incredible place and return to normalcy as I know it. Living so close to nature with the plants, the animals and the sea fills me with a sense of peace like nothing else. 

Being blessed with a private lesson this morning in using the reins, my legs, and my voice to guide him along, I quickly learned there was a lot to remember when riding a horse . At one point Compadre just stopped and refused to move forward as if to say: Just exactly WHAT do you want me to do? My messages were confusing to him, and to me. My short legs proved to be a problem. You see, when I kicked my heels to tell him to go forward my feet didn't connect. They are so short that they didn’t even touch his side so he had no clue what I was talking about. They were merely flapping in the wind around his massive body. Practicing the 4 points, (loosening the reins, making the giddy-up noises with my lips, kicking my feet and guiding the reins) takes time, patience and coordination for the rider and the horse. But, I am happy to say as the ride was ending we were getting better at it and Compadre was moving forward at a steady pace, even speeding up when I coaxed him. He no longer had to be pulled with a rope by Betto to get a move on it. A novice rider like me had to be extremely frustrating for this majestic creature. But Compadre handled it well, and even nuzzled his soft snout into my chest when we said goodbye. We had bonded in our own way. 


It was good to hear the rest of the story concerning my fall on Thursday night, because from my perspective it was still a mystery. Everything was fine until it wasn't and things changed in a nanosecond. Fortunately, another rider behind us had seen what happened. Apparently there had been people lying on the sand looking at the stars. Keep in mind that it was really dark because the full moon had not appeared yet. When they saw our riding group approaching the area, they sprang up unexpectedly and spooked Compadre, the closest horse to them. Betto had trained his horses to step to the side and stop, not rear up and run. And that’s exactly what Compadre did. He put his head down, brought it up and quickly stepped to the left before I could grasp what was happening. Unfortunately, I proceeded with my forward momentum to the right and slid over his shoulder resulting in a jarring face plant on the sand. If the reins had been in my hand maybe this could have been avoided, but maybe not. It happened so fast and I was not prepared so in reality this accident was my fault, not his. 

Leaving this magical place on Thursday will be difficult. Life is simple here and I have bonded with the energy of Baja California Sur. Travel is energizing, taking me out of the routine of life and providing adventures and lasting memories for my soul. I am once again reminded that life is simple, life is good, and life is meant to be experienced and enjoyed. I must continue to move forward with my wanderlust spirit and be here, there and everywhere at once! So many beautiful places to see and do, and so little time. 

Namasté


Saturday, April 6, 2019

Out of Baja on a Prayer


“You know you are truly alive when you’re living among lions.” ― Karen Blixen, “Out of Africa”

On the way down the Baja Peninsula we were driving at least 12-hours a day, and often traveling after dark in unfamiliar territory. After getting recommendations from our friends in Los Barriles of dog friendly places to stay on our way back, we decided to back off the long days and take full advantage of our remaining time in Mexico. We had officially adopted the laid-back Baja attitude of enjoying every moment. Quite a contrast from our 4,000 mile journey from Alaska south. The unconscious driving to click off the miles as quickly as possible was drudgery, especially with all the ice and snow. There had to be a better, more fun way to travel and we were ready to find it.

The Rice & Beans Hotel was an ideal place to stay for the night and it was only a little after 5 when we arrived, the magical cocktail hour. Dogs were welcome and there was a restaurant and bar. I ordered shrimp tacos and a margarita to take to the room. I watched as she made the rita with lots of key limes, a splash of Cointreau, mucho tequila and a salted rim. It was unquestionably the best one yet! Our neighbors were friendly bikers from Oregon, and a couple from Vancouver, BC.  Good food, good drink, good company, and good sleep was had by all. 

I had learned my lesson or so I thought, about watching the gas gauge while driving out of Baja, and as I passed through the larger town of Guerrero Negro early the next morning I had a little over three-quarters of a tank. I had spent the night here on the way down and had no desire to return. The road was dirt with huge ruts and the first hotel I stopped at left me waiting for 20 minutes (after driving 12 hours) before telling me they had no rooms available. The next hotel was questionable but it was already after 9 PM so I didn’t mention the peros in case there was a problem. Exhausted and spent, we just needed a bed. We got a room for $28 with a latch on the door that sometimes worked. After an extremely long day of driving from Rosarito, we didn’t care. The sheets and towels were clean, and it was a place to sleep. We quietly got into our room without being detected by the front desk guy who was busy watching Jeopardy on the TV. 


Sleeping Peros
After getting through Guerrero Negro we started looking for a Pemex station as we headed into the mountains. We passed a few towns and they all had hotels, cafes and restaurants but after a few it occurred to me that I had not seen a petrol station at all. We continued driving for several hours and watched as the needle slowly moved closer to the halfway mark. Driving in the desert is lonely, and long. There are few cars and even fewer towns, and the road goes on and on. It’s easy to go 80 MPH on the open road, and sometimes even 90. I wasn’t that concerned until the needle began approaching a quarter of a tank as we passed through yet another town with no services. There had been no cell service for hours so it was hard to know where we were exactly and where we were going. Maps do not show most of the desert towns. I  tried not to panic, but nevertheless could not believe I was once again in this situation, cursing under my breath as the dogs slept on. Remembering to practice yoga deep breathing  to calm myself from the stress that had been building now for over an hour and there was still no relief in sight. By the time I got down to almost a quarter of a tank the dogs let me know that it was indeed their time to poop. Rather than drive on as quickly as possible and get it over with if we were going to run out of fuel, I decided it was time to stop for a break in the middle of nowhere. We pulled over and walked as I thought about what to do, and again cursed myself for getting into this dilemma again. Two days in a row! Shit!!!! I reassured myself that it was going to work out the way it was supposed to, and it was all part of the adventure. Relax, breathe and accept the natural flow as it presents itself. Watch the dogs, as they relieve themselves without a care in the world. They are my teachers. 

SHIT! Not again. . .
At that moment I saw a car coming toward us and raised my hand in an attempt to get him to stop. His car began to slow down as he pulled across the road and in behind me. The Mexican people are always so helpful. Ole!  He said  as I rushed up to his window saying mucho gracias for stopping. He spoke some English so I asked him how far it was to the next gas station. He said something amazing—beautiful music to my ears, only 15-20 more minutes ahead, he replied; how much do you have? I said about a quarter of a tank. Oh you will be fine, he said. He continued to give me direcitons in Spanish but I could not understand anything but the name of the town. But just to be sure, I confirmed that  gas was only 15-20 minutes away, right? Si, he said. That’s all I needed to know. Mucho, mucho gracias, Señor. He smiled, Hasta Luego, Señorita. Buena suerte!

The weight of the world had just been lifted off my shoulders. I felt the anxiety leave my constricted chest and could once again breathe easily. We still had a quarter of a tank so we would make it to the station, no problem. As we came into the town we saw hotels, cafes and restaurants but where the hell was the station? I’m frantically looking as I continued on, the anxiety once again building when I realized we were going back into the desert without fuel. No way were we leaving this town without gas! I quickly made a U-Turn in the middle of the two-lane highway behind an 18-wheeler. The road was not wide enough to complete the turn so I had to back up, stopping traffic to get turned around. There was an RV behind me so I rolled down my window and asked the driver if there was a gas station that I had missed. He said there were full gas cans on the side of the road, it’s very expensive but they had it. Just look for the Pemex sign written on plywood he said. I could have kissed him but he was in his RV and I was in Toyota Lander and she desperately needed a drink (and so did I). Instead, I said thank you so much. Obviously the Mexican man had tried to tell me about the gas cans, if only I understood Spanish!

Where the hell?
Cruising back through the 2 block town, I finally saw the sign with the hand-written word Pemex—nothing resembling a station or pump, only some 5-gallon drums sitting on the side of the road. Who knew? I pulled over and a Mexican man came  out of the hut across the street and sauntered over our way. He could speak English and that was a good thing! He sold gas by the gallon, and could sell me 5 gallons for $33. I didn’t do the math or even blink an eye because, well, I didn’t give a shit. I just needed some fuel! I said I would take it as a young boy came over and began siphoning the gas with a hose into my tank out of a 5-gallon can that probably wasn’t full to start with but again, we didn’t care! It took forever before the needle began to move upward, I remember saying over and over that the needle wasn’t moving. The Mexican man just smiled. When he finished we had half a tank and I wondered if we needed more. His response was: “You want more?” And then I reconsidered. 

Soon to be. . .
Lander was now back on the road with half a tank of gas and we only had 120 km (approximately 75 miles)  to the next real gas station. We were so grateful. The stress had finally left me, and I was able to relax in the moment just like the dogs, my role models. When you’re in the middle of the desert you can drive for miles and miles and miles and see nothing but more desert. We are happy to say we are on the road headed north, and the gas issue has been permanently resolved. Things worked out exactly as they were supposed to, when they were supposed to. Sometimes it takes more than once to learn a lesson.


Living on the edge
Living on a Prayer (Bon Jovi)
The times you know you are truly alive!
― Karen Roush, “Out of Baja”




Tuesday, April 2, 2019

Being Blonde . . . In The Desert?


As we connect to Mexico Highway #1 out of Los Barriles the cool air tickles the senses as the ocean breeze blows through Toyota Lander. We had one final beach walk (swim for Brody), and a small care cooler was delivered by our dear friend who thinks of everything. Sautéed chicken, goat cheese, salmon spread, boiled eggs and crackers—our snacks for the road. Mucho gracias!

Glancing in the rear view mirror as we begin our long drive north, I reflect on all the wonderful people we have met. Here are just a few. The local veterinarian that was willing to share his cases with me each time I stopped by and asked questions, explaining everything so well. We thought BunBun may have contacted kennel cough so he prescribed some cough medicine and honey for her food. In hindsight it was only the desert dust causing her to gag and occasionally cough. 

Luis at the clinic, who graciously gave me Vitamin B shots every day for 6 days with a smile on his face, always asking how I was feeling. And let’s not forget the doctor that initially treated me with a sense of calmness that helped me breathe deep and not panic, and the clinic staff that put up with me coming in the back door each day with a Hola, Buenos Dias and Como Estas—the extent of my Spanish. 


Wednesday night open mic at La Fogata was always a treat. So many talented musicians. 

The lovely ladies at the nail spa that did several repairs on a nail that was breaking deep into the quick. They were able to save it for several days so it could grow out. When it finally did come off it was not painful. And, they refused any pesos for doing it. 

And the horseback riders and stable staff that accommodated my lack of riding experience and short legs! Mucho gracias, to all of you!  

Also a special thanks to all the expats we met that shared a piece of their Los Barriles life with us. As I think back on this incredible month I realize how much I will miss the lifestyle and the people. In some small way we have connected here, and leaving is bittersweet. We are lost in thought, filled with a sense of peace, contentment and euphoria. And far from being in the present moment.

Introspective times like this is when I can be so blonde. Arriving to the first town with a Pemex station I notice that I have half a tank of gas but it doesn’t occur to me to fill up. I’m still reminiscing as I head into the desert mountains. As the road curves around and gets steeper by the mile, I decide to find out how far it is to the next gas station. Siri said it was 29 miles. No problem, we got this. 

As we continue on the landscape becomes more and more curvy and remote, and cell service is sketchy at best. I wanted to confirm the distance so I asked Siri once again how far it is to the petrol station and this time she said 49 miles! WTH? Maybe I should map it (brilliant idea), and guess what? The gas station is behind us!  OMG, cell service is completely out now as I quickly make a U-Turn on a steep curve  hoping that an 18-wheeler does not come barreling around the bend.  In a flash I was once again headed south! Running out of gas in the desert would not be a good thing. Backtracking added a 100 miles to our day, but it’s OK. Mexico can be like the Alaska Highway used to be—miles and miles and miles with no gas. I vowed not to make this mistake again!  


Back on Highway #1 N with a full tank of gas, destination tonight San Ignacio, with a reservation at The Rice & Bean Motel where all dogs are welcome! We will add Los Barriles to our memory bank of adventures and anxiously await our return to this small slice of paradise. 

Hasta Luego Amigos!

Monday, March 25, 2019

Horsin’ Around


Getting back on the horse, so to speak . . .


Ghost Riders on the Beach

Spring equinox horseback riding on the beach waiting for the full moon. I read about it and knew I wanted to do it. What a concept on a beautiful night. There was no better way to welcome spring than a warm ocean breeze, a white sand beach, a majestic horse, and a full moon over Baja California Sur. We met up at the stables and were taken by car about 10 miles down the beach where the horses stood waiting. I have ridden many times, but would not consider myself an experienced rider so I opted for one of the slower guys, Compadre. I spoke with him before getting up onto the saddle and knew he was a gentle soul.

Compadre & Me
As we began our trek down the beach it was obvious he had no desire to hurry and neither did I, as we sauntered along the magnificent seacoast We were often close to the last rider, with only one slower horse behind us that was literally asleep on his feet with his tongue lobbing out to the side. The horses do these treks so often they can obviously do it sleepwalking. I had the reins and pulled Compadre toward the right so we could get closer to the waves. He complied but didn’t seem thrilled about the new route. He preferred to do it his way so I relented. By this time the horse behind was awake and got ahead of us. The sun was going down, the beach was beautiful and the sky was full of stars. The full moon would be coming up soon. We passed people on the beach but the community areas were quiet with not much activity. We were going so slow that I had no need to hold the reins, but instead held onto the saddle horn (first mistake). There were people near the beach but not close to us. It was a glorious ride.


Until . . . it wasn't. And all hell broke loose in an instant.

Compadre heard or saw something that I didn’t, and got spooked. He reared his head up and stepped sideways to the left leaving me behind on the sand, struggling to breathe. In an instant, another face plant but this time there was no tequila involved (Gaslight District, San Diego). He immediately stopped when he realized I had fallen off. If I had held onto the reins this could have been avoided. It was a total shock and I was immediately out of control trying to figure out what was happening. This resulted in a trip to urgent care for X-rays as I struggled to breathe, walk and get into a car. The right side of my back was throbbing and my breathing was shallow causing some dizziness, along with the aching in the right side of my head and face, and my knees. Fortunately one of the riders was a nurse. Once it was determined I was coherent and my neck was okay, I was helped up to rest on a ledge before being guided to the car for transport.

At the clinic I was finally able to inhale deeply. X-rays showed nothing broken, only bruising and the side of my face/head and knees were sand-burned and sore. The medical care was impressive. They gave me anti-inflammatory meds, a shot for pain (non-narcotic) and they sent me home with Vitamin B shots to be given to myself once a day! Should I faint now or wait until I stick the needle in my butt, no less? The doctor saw the distress on my face and told me to come back once a day and they would do it, no argument there! I have no clue how to give myself a shot and am not interested in learning.

The Mexican people were so incredibly helpful and genuine. The stable owners wife never left my side and paid for everything. The doctor gave me strict instructions to rest for the next few days saying I would be really sore. But it didn’t happened! I am astounded at how quickly I healed. The following morning I was already better, and two days later it’s almost like it never happened. I’m sure it has to do with the vitamin shots. When I first arrived in Baja I hit my knee on a bedpost and was bruised for almost 3 weeks. In only a few days the bruising on my knees and face has faded considerably and the ribs are back to normal. I can’t explain it, because when it happened I felt sure I had seriously injured myself. I am so grateful to heal this quickly and thank my lucky stars. That little angel that rides on my shoulder was definitely with me. My spirit guides are always out there watching over me. 

So what happened to Compadre that spooked him so badly? I decided to go see him to let him know I was okay. I’m sure he was very frightened that night, and since all the attention was on me he was left not knowing. He needed to know. I drove to the stables and told Betto (owner) I wanted to see Compadre. I walked up to him, stroked the side of his incredibly soft snout,  and assured him I was okay; that I knew he didn’t mean to hurt me. He immediately nuzzled his nose into my chest, pushing against me ever so slightly. I stood with him for some time and we connected; he understood. 


I could be just as crazy about horses as I am dogs, if only I had a place for one. So whenever I get an opportunity to go on a horseback ride, I take it. Horses are spiritual creatures with a deep connection to humans. They are magical animals. Their intuitiveness and their relationship with us is profound. They are often used in healing therapies. The Tao of Equus: A Woman's Journey of Healing and Transformation through the Way of the Horse is an incredible book written by a Linda Kohanov. She rescues abused horses and works with abused women. In the initial therapy session she puts horses in a ring with abused victims and the horses choose who they want to work with. Invariably the most abused horse will choose the most abused woman. 


I have another date with Compadre, a morning beach ride. What a beautiful way to end our time in Baja California Sur, connecting with this majestic creature. Getting back on the horse, so to speak—but this time I will hang on to the reins.

Wednesday, March 20, 2019

Where Are We, Toto?



Abandoned Surfboard


Spacious Shade

Nestled into our thirty foot trailer by the beach in Los Barriles, we are in the perfect spot for the moment. The yard is totally enclosed with a large palapa providing shade from the afternoon sun. It’s lovely having a fenced area for the dogs. 

Outdoor Fridge

Surfer Boy

Truly a doggie paradise, they are free to run the beaches with abandonment and swim for chuck-it balls in the surf. We are literally 80 paces to the white sand and dogs are everywhere. Los Barriles is a wind surfing destination and the afternoon landscape is peppered with colorful wind sails and kites. The calm morning waters are perfect for paddle boarders working their core muscles. 4-wheelers are allowed on the beach but only in the lanes provided for track vehicles. Winter storms provide piles and piles of wonderful driftwood on the upper beaches. There is always a breeze making the 75 degree temperatures very pleasant. The trailer has a fan keeping the inside cool during the day and chilly at night for sleeping. AC is also available but we rarely need to turn it on. We are in a quiet RV Park with El Gecko Restaurant just a stone’s throw away. Happy hour is everyday from 11-5 and the pollo quesadillas are amazing. They offer a shaded area with lounge chairs near the water, and are happy to wait on the sunbathers. Chairs can also be pulled out of the shade and into the full sun for maximum tanning.

Alaska White
Five dogs sleep on the bed at night. Guinness has developed a habit of needing a drink and a poop around 5 AM each morning. He sits up and starts panting. Sometimes after a few pats on the head he will flop back down for an hour. Recently he has been persistent. The rest of us are like, Really? It’s still dark outside!

Guinny
This morning I was hoping for a reprieve of a few more minutes of shut-eye when I heard the thump of a dog hitting the carpeted floor. OMG! Struggling for the light above my head, while the others are moving over so I can get out of the blanket,  I find Guinny has landed on the backside of the bed and is making his way around in hot pursuit of the door. I grabbed my sandals and after checking to make sure he was okay, I opened the front door just in time to see him scamper down the 4 steps.The incredible full moon to the West was lighting his way. By this time all the dogs have arrived at the door, except Bunny and Anne who must be lifted down off the bed. Oh well, guess it’s time to get up after all. I put on water for the French press, checked my iPhone for messages, and got out the computer to write a blog. In typical doggie fashion, they are now all back to sleep beside me on the couch as I ingest myself with caffeine and start my day.


Pike's Market


Saturday, March 16, 2019

Looking for the Sun



Marathon driving from Whitehorse to Fort Nelson (600+ miles) made for an exhausting day, especially when you count the drama inside Toyota Lander. Imagine looking in the rear view mirror and seeing a dog assume the position without being able to do anything about it! She had desperately tried to climb out the closed window before the eruption. Poor AnnBanan could not help but poop in the backseat three times before I could find a place to pull over. Bless her, she tried to cover it up with the dog blankets. She was mortified. Bunny and Guinness stayed on the other side of the seat to get away from her, while RockDog and Brody cuddled on the passenger seat, occasionally looking back to give her the proverbial stink eye.


Once again breaking my rule of not driving after dark, we continued on as there was no place to stop. We finally made it to the Shannon Motel where only one dog is permitted for $10 extra. We have stayed here many times with multiple dogs because it is the first motel you see after a long day of driving, and it’s easy to get the dogs inside without being noticed. This previous quiet, nondescript motel was now unrecognizable with various colored blinking lights adorning the outside. The place could have passed for a brothel or casino but the sign still said Rooms Available. I signed the register, paid the extra $10 and was happy they didn’t ask me how many dogs. It got a bit weird when we pulled in front of our room to unload and saw the owner walking in the yard. This was a good time to fill up with gas and walk the dogs at the service station instead of the motel yard. When we returned the owner was gone and we managed to get all five dogs into the room undetected.

Did I mention it is absolutely freezing here?  At a temperature hovering around minus 13, most people were staying inside, and it was dark with minimal reflection from the snow. After dinner the dogs were ready to stretch out on both the beds and I was actually able to take a bubble bath. The bathtub wasn’t great but the hot water still felt good on my weary legs. Who knew there was a Motel 6 right down the road with a much nicer tub where all dogs are welcome ? Oh well, note for next time.







After a good nights sleep we were ready to go at 7 AM. I took the dogs out separately to avoid being busted. Apparently I didn’t get the door properly latched—dogs are opportunists at heart—and when I turned around all five of them were running around the yard! OMG, Panic!  Chasing Anne on the ice with a sore knee in my Birks was a bit tricky. I actually got her on leash quicker than I expected and all the others followed me back to the room for breakfast.  And the good news? They all pooped before coming in as I frantically bagged the evidence. Yay! Hopefully there will be no accidents in the car today. Again, we were lucky to be unnoticed but at this hour, it was still a frigid minus 11 degrees. 

I started the car and began loading it after feeding the hounds. After about 15 minutes I took another load to the car and noticed it was still freezing and frosted up! OMG! Is the heater out?. The mind goes into overdrive figuring out how we can continue with no heater, or where we could get it repaired? After looking closely, it appeared Lander was only sitting there and had not really started. I apparently did not push the start button long enough, or forgot to put my foot on the brake. I fired her up, set my timer for another 15 minutes and when I came back out she was warm as toast. Major relief! 

Today we’re on our way toward the highway that cuts off the Alaska Highway and goes down to Abbotsford BC, a  border crossing into Washington State, still about 700 miles away. We will still be in British Columbia tonight but will be officially off the Alaska Highway and back to civilization as we know it. We are avoiding Vancouver and the Seattle area at all costs because of an amazing amount of snowfall. I just looked at the thermometer and it said minus 20, when I looked again it read minus 15 and I was elated. Can you imagine being excited about minus 15? 

So happy to report, we have officially left Sergeant Preston of the Yukon and his amazing dog King behind as we continue our exhausting search for snow free roads and warmer weather. We are headed south. Arizona and the hot sun are out there somewhere and we can't wait! 

Little did we know we were still thousands of snowy miles away . . .