El Toro

Bridge Traffic

The bridge connecting Rajajula with Rishikesh is narrow and packed with people, cows, dogs and scooters. Walking back over it from a shopping trip, I was stuck behind an interesting four-legged couple. The procession continued onto the street once we exited the bridge. She was a gentle brown lady with a soft-white nose; he was a black, shiny and stout bull—the epitome of masculinity. They were obviously together sashaying side by side with her in the lead. As we rounded the corner to a hill that was going straight up, I heard people yelling commands at the couple, but I was oblivious from my position close behind their back sides. I did notice other cows on the left, coming down the hill. 

The Couple

Abruptly the black bull stopped and assumed the posture I recognize from my dog experience—head up, stiff body, bristling coat—high alert, usually not a good thing. I may not be a cow whisperer but some behavior is easy to spot in any animal. A smaller bull approached and sniffed the black male, then continued down the hill without incident. Another male approached and sniffed the female, obviously not a good move. People were scattering and yelling at the animals to move on. I reluctantly followed their lead and scampered down the hill and behind the rock wall just as the fight erupted! I was hoping for up-close photographs but that was not to be. 

Locked Horns

They locked horns even before I got behind the wall. The female stood by quietly and observed, looking bored with the entire situation. The black bull quickly got the smaller one into a lock down on the rock wall, and it looked as if he was going to topple over it. He somehow found the strength to break away and hightail it up the hill, defeated. At this point people jumped between them so the black bull could not chase after the smaller one. Wow! I have now witnessed my first bull fight in the streets. It was quick, thank goodness. The moral to the story: pay attention to the locals and when they start running for cover, do the same!

El Toro!

The next day I saw El Toro roaming the streets proudly, head up, chest out. He was King of the Village, at least until another bull is brave enough to challenge his position. 

Namasté